Surf's up ;)

My dream of learning/ attempting to surf has finally come true! But how could it not when I am currently living in one of the best surf destinations in Europe; Sagres, Portugal. Before taking the job at Picnic I was asked if I surfed during my interview with the owner and manager. When I replied with no I was very quickly asked why I wanted to move to Sagres if I did not enjoy surfing. This question really confused me during my interview because I knew Sagres was located next to the ocean but I had been to plenty of places along the ocean that did not only revolve around surfing. However, after living here for only a few days I understand now. This town is allllllll about surfing and that is literally it. Out of all of the people that I have met in my few days of being here, only 4 of them do not frequently surf. Everyone dresses in the classic “surfer aesthetic” and there are at least 6 surf shops located in this tiny town. I think there are more surf shops then restuarnts. (Ok, that might be slighty dramatic but you get the point). Van life is also very popular here because people drive up and down the coast to find the best waves. Now, based on all of that information I bet you guys can guess what I did on my first full day off ;) If you guessed surfing you guessed right! I decided to rent a wetsuit and surfboard and drive with some friends I met at the hostel to Tonel beach. 

Like I mentioned before I have never surfed or done anything remotely similar to surfing. Most people take surf lessons for their first time but I honestly didn’t feel like paying the fee and having someone watch me the entire time after already paying for the gear so I decided to wing it and learn through the mistakes. 

The first step to surfing in Portugal during March is to put on your wetsuit. I don’t know how many of you have ever tried to put on a wetsuit but that was an adventure in itself. My friend and I stripped down to our bikinis in the surf shop parking lot that was close to the beach and began putting on the wetsuits. I had no idea what I was in for. For starters, the wetsuit was extremely claustrophobic and uncomfortable which made it near impossible to get on. As soon  as I finally got it on I wanted to take it off but its apparently supposed to keep me warm enough so I don't get hypothermia so I left it on. ;) I also had to block out the fact that I was renting a wetsuit which meant other people had worn it. After watching my hostel clean them I highly doubt mine had been cleaned properly from when the last person wore it. I know… gross. 

Once the wetsuits were on we hiked down to the beach where there were already at least 100 people out in the water surfing. My friend briefly explained the basics of surfing to me and then we both headed into the water. I was actually amazed with how well the wetsuit kept me warm because the water was freezing. I stayed in the white wash of the wave for the majority of the day because this allowed me to get a feel for riding the wave and standing on the board. During the 3 hours of surfing I was able to stand on the board about 10-15 times and face planted around 100 lol. I think I swallowed more salt water in those 3 hours than I have in my entire life but it was sooooo worth it. When I was actually able to stand on the board it was one of the most cool feelings which means I have found my new hobby for the time being.

Looks like my childhood dream of learning to surf may come true after all...I'll keep you all posted ;)